You see surfers, especially the short boarders, catch a wave then pump a few times and then start maneuvering their board toward the bottom and top to build speed. Once they have built speed they may hit the bottom turn that follows with a ride to the lip that is then popped to another ride to the bottom.

Whereas advanced surfers can get this accomplished in a very short period of time, the learning surfer cannot. The learning surfer usually needs more pocket time to get it going. The other advantage an advanced surfer has it that that he will start very close to the peak or power of the breaking wave and get a very strong push of speed to begin.

The learning surfer is more comfortable catching the wave out of the peak and closer to the shoulder or end of the power. The advantage for the learning surfer is that you can catch almost any size wave near the shoulder or corner and ride it easier. It forms slower and you have more time to stand up once you catch it.

The problem is that on a sand bar beach, the wave may not be very long and you are hitting the shoulder that runs out of power very quickly. What I have found is great for this step is to catch the wave either right or left out of the peak or power spot and then ride to the corner or shoulder and do a cut back.

When you do a cut back to the power or where the wave is breaking, you will catch the wave in front of the breaking foam that is heading for the beach. If the wave has no power, it will die. But if it is a strong wave you will find yourself driving in front of the foam in a diagonal line for the beach.

It is great fun and gives you a long ride. Secondly, in this process you can start working the pump and the maneuver. Sometimes this ride will take you to a new section that is breaking again toward the beach. This section often leads to blowing up the wave and maybe a nose dive.  You have to decide if you want this last section or just want to fall off your board at this point.

But if you are riding in front of the foam driving for the beach, it is a great spot to practice pumping and getting your board to dive down to the bottom and turn up to the top. At this point in the small wave that is being pushed in front of the foam, these up and down turns may only be a few feet.

They do get you to start realizing how to pressure the back of the board and turn it with your front foot or carve the wave by leaning the rails. If the speed is too slow, you are likely to bury the rail in the up turn. The faster you are going the easier it is to carve or use the pressure of your back and front feet to guide the board.

It is obvious that once you can do it in these less threatening conditions of riding in front of the foam, that you could then try it soon as you catch the wave if you start closer to the break. If you sense the wave is breaking right or left, you head for the power spot or peak or apex and either drop into the wave and turn at the bottom or angle your board immediately for a drive towards the break.

Once you have speed you can pump a few times or just head for the bottom and begin your first up turn. If you are moving fast you might carve the turn. If you are not moving fast enough you might have to weight the back of the board and use the front foot to guide the board up the wave.

Once you are riding up, it is time to start your body motion to ride it back down. If you watch video you will see how the hands, hips, and head lead the turns. The feet and the board are at the end of the whip.

Tags: techniques, waves